Technical Information

Beware….all systems are not created equal!

Microdermabrasion:

Achieves - surface exfoliation and skin rejuvenation. It is probably the only service on the market that works from both epidermal to dermal (outside to in) and dermal to epidermal (inside to out) during the one treatment and at the same time.

How it works – utilises a vacuum air flow that:-

Adheres the treatment head to the skin
Drives a multi faceted-shaped crystal (alum oxide) onto the skin in a rolling, tumbling action thus creating the surface exfoliation.
Uses a diamond encrusted tip to create the surface exfoliation.
Draws blood to the surface of the skin thus creating a greater level of oxygenated blood in the dermis, this in turn increases intercellular activity, ‘kick starting’ a greater level of production of collagen, elastin and fibroblast – skin rejuvenation.

General considerations –

Multi faceted-shaped crystals, although generally considered to be the strong man approach in the resurfacing arena, does create the greatest level of exfoliation, giving a much higher success rate with such problems as acne, acne scarring, open pores, thickened skin than the other ‘optional exfoliation’ modes. Exfoliation is created on the day of treatment and continues for approx 2/3 days post treatment.
Diamond encrusted tips are generally considered to be a gentler, less effective approach in the resurfacing arena because it creates a lower level of exfoliation. However, with the thinner, finer skin types typically requiring microdermabrasion for dealing with fine lines and wrinkles rather than skin exfoliation, diamond heads permit a greater level of vacuum to be used thus maximising the rejuvenation process. Exfoliation is only created on the day of treatment and does not normally continue post treatment.
‘Other optional’ modes are organic grains and baking soda and are generally used as a ‘very light skin polisher’. They do not create any meaningful surface exfoliation.
In general, progressive therapists prefer a ‘dual’ (crystal/diamond combination) system giving maximum variability for both skin resurfacing and skin rejuvenation.
Motor size DOES count. The smaller the motor the less air-flow. The less air-flow the less working capability and variability. The less working capability and variability the less results! The harder the motor is worked, the shorter its’ life span will be. (A little like putting a Mini in a formula 1 race!).
Systems utilising either a small motor, baking soda or organic grains are generally considered ‘beauty flash’ and, due to the low result level per session, treatments are often required on a more regular basis, or the results are supplemented by incorporating a glycolic peel prior to the service.
Systems utilizing a large motor give higher result levels per session and are generally conducted every 14 days.
Systems that automatically calibrate air to crystal are cleaner, more cost effective, easier and quicker to use and generate superior results in a shorter space of time.

Microcurrent

Achieves – Non-surgical face-lift with the more ‘up-market’ systems also being capable of: product infusion, disencrustation, enhancement of scar tissue repair.

How it works – utilises a combination of different wave forms, frequencies and hertz that are simultaneously delivered through single or dual tipped probes into the muscle and skin tissue to:

Increase blood flow. As people age, the number and size of the capillaries supplying oxygen and vital nutrients to the epidermis and dermis decrease, causing the cells of the skin to gradually begin to diminish in size and function.
Stimulate and speed up the rate at which the skin produces its own connective tissue fibers, collagen and elastin, therefore increasing the supportive framework of the dermis.
Stimulate and speed up the rate at which the body produces its muscle protein, adenosine triphosphate synthesis fibers, to reduce the ageing effects on muscle tissue and reduce muscle atrophy. As people get older and also either due to gravity, genetics, poor skin care, sun exposure, poor nutrition and stress, the 30 facial muscles attached directly below the skin surface lose their elasticity, become weaker and over time sag. This makes it more difficult for the muscles to support the skin and finally results in the appearance of wrinkles, creases and folds.
Re-sculpt and re-educate the muscle tissue by lengthening or shortening as necessary utilizing the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique. Repeated expressions result in a strengthening and shortening of contractive muscles and a weakening and stretching of the distended muscles, once again creating those ever dreaded

Wrinkles and creases!

General considerations:-

Systems that utilise computer aided pre-programmed technology are easier, quicker to use giving the highest achievable results per treatment.
Microcurrent DOES NOT create involuntary muscle contraction such systems are considered E.M.S . (Electro Muscle Stimulating) devices and work on the general position of ‘no pain – no gain’. But why would you work an already over-worked muscle?
True microcurent systems do not work at the insertion and exertion point of the muscle, they utilise the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique of re-educating the muscle at the point of the musculotendinous joint (shortening if the muscle has lengthened, and vice versa).

Dermal ‘Cerasome” Oxygen Therapy

Achieves – skin rejuvenation and controls the P.acnes bacteria.

How it works – utilises pure oxygen (through encapsulation and stabilisation) to:-

Create a greater level of oxygenated blood in the dermis. This automatically increases and stimulates cell production and the production of collagen, elastin and fibroblast (the skins’ underlying structure).
Kill the P.acnes bacteria, which cannot survive in an oxygen environment (it implodes in on itself).
Fill the intercellular layers that have a low level of, or are devoid of, oxygen and hydration thereby increasing the strength of the skin tissue.
Cocoon the cell in pure STABILISED oxygen, which continues to feed the cell for 6 hours post treatment.
Create an anti-oxidant radical rich environment.

General considerations:-

In order to avoid promoting further free-radical damage, stabilised oxygen must be used for this type of service. Unstabilised oxygen actively promotes and enhances the free-radical ‘domino effect’ (promoting ageing). Stabilised oxygen disables such activity (reducing and decreasing the signs of ageing)
In general the oxygen gas obtained from either a pressurised oxygen cylinder or oxygen concentrator is not in a form that the skin can readily utilise and, more importantly, it is not stabilised. 99.9% of this type of oxygen simply bounces off the skin into the atmosphere.
Utilising a stabilised oxygen saturated liquid is considered the most effective approach to this form of treatment. Getting a gas into a liquid is done at the time of manufacture in a sealed vacuum chamber. Adding a serum to the hopper of the air brush is, for the purposes of getting the oxygen gas into the skin, ineffective as the serum is incapable of absorbing any meaningful amounts of the oxygen.
Hyperbaric oxygen is high-pressure oxygen conducted in a totally sealed environment ie. a diving chamber or oxygen tent. To utilise this type of approach for oxygen penetration into the skin, the area concerned would need to be in a sealed chamber, ie the face/neck completely sealed in its’ own environment for several hours. Whilst this technology can have wonderful effects within the medical industry, to-date there is no such system that enables this industry to use this particular technology.

LIGHT ACTIVATED SKIN THERAPY

OVERVIEW

Various past studies have shown that certain wavelengths of visible light (which we see as colours), delivered under controlled conditions, can have hugely beneficial effects in the field of skin rejuvenation and repair and that different wavelengths, or colours, have different effects on human tissue.

For instance:

Red light of about 630nm has been shown to be ideal for rejuvenation.
It increases collagen, elastin and fibroblast production and reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Yellow light of about 590nm tones and strengthens underlying tissue and provides firmness and tautness to the skin.
Yellow light also has an anti- inflammatory effect.

Green light of about 575nm calms and balances the skin, reduces pigmentation and redness and desensitises the skin.

Blue light of about 470nm clears congested, acneic skins. It kills the P.Acnes bacteria responsible for cystic and acne breakout and is perfect for oily prone skin.

Happily, with the recent availability of light therapy systems within the industry, these effects can now be usefully utilised by aesthetic therapists.

However, recent studies, conducted by NASA and other organisations, have shown that ‘pulsing’ (rapid on/off switching) the light source at certain frequencies vastly increases the cellular reaction during the process and these studies have also determined that the actual amount of light energy must reach certain, critical levels to be truly effective.

The most logical light source to achieve the required parameters has been identified as an LED array. LED’s emit light at a controlled wavelength (colour), generate almost no heat in operation and are able to be switched rapidly on and off (pulsed) without shortening the life of the unit. They are also capable of emitting the high levels of light energy required for this purpose.

What is the difference between laser/IPL photo rejuvenation and light therapy rejuvenation?

Light therapy offers a more complete coverage for a longer period of time head sizes are typically 218 square cm whereas, typically the coverage area of a laser/IPL head is around 2” square.
Light therapy stimulates the cell for a longer period of time – typically anywhere from 10 minutes upwards depending on the output intensity of the system whereas with laser/IPL the cell is only stimulated for a fraction of a second.
Light therapy offers completely hands-free operation whereas laser/IPL rejuvenation treatments are labour intensive.
Light therapy works with the skin not against the skin unlike laser/IPL. Light therapy is a nonthermal treatment. No infra-red or ultra-violet light is used.
With most light therapy systems staff can be fully trained and operational in 4 hours whereas with laser/IPL, training is far more intensive, over a longer period of time thus the system is not fully operational immediately unless, of course, such training had been undertaken prior to delivery. NO LICENCE IS REQUIRED – neither does a laser safety officer need to be on the premises!

Selecting equipment

Would you consider trying to win a formula 1 race…..in a mini? The answer is no! The same analogy works for this industry. You need to buy the right piece of equipment to give you the results! At the end of the day you get what you pay for.